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This is a pattern I had made to teach my student how to make her first cabled hat, so I made sure it was not intimidating. Very quick to knit, so great for gifts.I have used a bulky alpaca yarn so it had a fair drape and a pom-pom was too heavy, but it may work better if you use wool. *Note* I have originally posted and recommended size #10 needles for the body, but it seems like many people have been getting a less slouchy result. If you want to get a slouchy hat for sure, it might be better to use size #11 for the body. I don’t have a specific gauge, but the fabric for the main body should be somewhat loose and have a bit of a drape. If your swatch is closely knit and sturdy, your hat WILL become a beanie.

Another note is on the *K3M1* increase; if you do chose to use KFB, watch out where you do that, since if you do *K3 KFB* the number WILL NOT match.

PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSIONMaterials Needed: US7 or 8 for BrimUS10 or 11 for Body (NOTE : I had used #8 and #11, and the body was pretty big so I felted down a little. My student used #7 and #10, and it was a little less slouchier than the one I felted down. For snug brim I recommend 7, but if you want a big hat, try #11 for the body.#10 will give you a less-slouchy hat. Another way to add slouch is to do extra cable repeats before decrease.)

For either, DPN, fixed 16″ Circular, Using 32″+ needles to work in Magic loop is your choice.I used Cascade Yarns Baby Alpaca Chunky. The hat weighs around 120g, so it is safe to use 2 skeins, but you’ll have a good portion of the second one left.Directions: Cast on 72st using smaller needles.2×2 rib for AT LEAST 10 rows in Main Color.(note to beginners, from experience–I know how it feels when you kind of get sick of ribbing quickly and want to move on to the body, but if you make your brim too short, you will end up with a hat that doesn’t stay on your head! So be patient–you’ll get there soon enough 😀 Make sure you get at least 1.5″)

Increase row : Repeat *K3M1* (96st) Change to the bigger needle. If you chose to change colors between the brim and body, change your yarn to Contrasting color in the next row. Establishing rows: Row1, 2 and 3) P2, K6, P2, K6Row 4) P2, T6F, P2, K6

T6F: put the next 3 st on a cable needle and hold it in the front, knit the next 3 st, and then knit the 3st on the cable needle. If you find holding the stitches on the back is easier, you can do that instead. Just once you decide which one you like, stick to that throughout the hat.

From there, repeat these rows 2 times: Row 1~7)P2, K6, P2, K6Row 8) P2, T6F, P2, K6 At this point you should have 3 cable ‘twists’

Decrease section:Row 1) P2 K6 P2, K4, K2tog (90st)

Row 2) P2 K6 P2, K5 (aka “even”) (90st) Row 3) P2 K6 P2, K3, K2tog (84st) Row 4) P2 K6 P2, K4 (aka “even”) (84st) Row 5) P2 K6 P2, K2, K2tog (78st) Row 6) P2 K6 P2, K1, K2tog (72st) Row 7) P2 K6 P2, K2tog (66st) Row 8) P2 T6F (if you have been doing T3B, do that here), P1, P2tog (60st) Row 9) P2 K6 P2tog (54st) Row 10) P2 K5 K2tog (48st) Row 11) P2 K4 K2tog (42st) Row 12) P2 K3 K2tog (36st) Row 13) P2 K2 K2tog (30st) Row 14) P2 K1 K2tog (24st) Row 15) P2tog k2tog (12st) Row 16) K2tog (6st)

Cut yarn, draw through remaining 6 stitches. Pull tightly to close the hole. Weave in ends in the inside of the hat and block.Hope you guys like it!This pattern (including text & images) is an original AZURE KNITS design. It is for personal use only. Other uses, including but not limited to reproduction, distribution, or sales of the pattern is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.


Thought I’d post this little thing too, just to give some notes to beginner knitters. Here are two basic constructions of hats, that may help you.

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